What You Need To Know Before Ordering Pigment

Many of our customers are building houses or pouring slabs and have questions about how to mix color into concrete correctly. While adding pigment to the concrete before pouring a slab is by far the easiest option, customers still need to ask a few important questions to get the color and appearance they’re hoping for. Before ordering your concrete pigment, call the ready-mix company responsible for pouring your concrete and ask the following questions:

1) What PSI or sack mix will the company be pouring?

The colors on Direct Colors Concrete Pigment Color Chart are created using a 5 sack mix or 3000 psi concrete. If the psi for your concrete is higher, the concrete pigment calculation will change. The amount of pigment needed will increase with the psi of the concrete.

2) What percentage of fly ash will be added to the concrete?

Excessive fly ash in the concrete can lighten the final color of a slab. 20% or less fly ash is acceptable with 10% being ideal.

3) How many yards of concrete will be poured?

The number of yards poured determines how many pounds of pigment will be needed to achieve a specific color.

TIP: To ensure complete mixing, ask the Ready-mix company to add the concrete pigment before leaving the plant. The pigment should be mixed with the concrete for a minimum of 15-20 minutes prior to pouring. For exact pigment for truck pour measurements, visit our project calculator and select the custom batch calculator. Remember to seal the concrete anytime from 15 to 30 days after the pour to protect the color.

Filed under: Projects, Q & A by Amie
No Comments »

By far the picture of a Shawnee, Oklahoma dentist’s office is the most popular project photo with our customers. The floor was designed and installed by Link Cowen of DecoCrete Inc. Mr. Cowen is a professional builder and concrete artisan but that shouldn’t stop a home or business owner from creating this beautiful finish in their own home or office.

Getting Started: Surface Prep and Overlay

The surface was prepped and cleaned using a swing buffer with a 150 grit sanding pad or by cleaning with a solution of water and Simple Green Degreaser. The condition of the floor will determine whether mechanical profiling will be required. A floor need simply be free of debris, level with no holes or broken areas to successfully overlay.

Link has selected DCI Smooth White Overlay for this project and used a pool trowel to apply, leaving half-moon marks on the surface for added texture. Concrete Overlay is specially-designed to produce the most robust reaction and acid stain colors. See our DCI Concrete Overlay brochure for more information and application techniques.

Applying the Acid Stain

Acid Stain can be applied in many ways to create different effects on the floor. Link cut the Malayan Buff acid stain 1 part water to 1 part stain to produce a more golden appearance. Keep in mind that the golden color can only be achieved on white concrete. The stain was applied with a pump-up all plastic sprayer. He followed with a heavily diluted 10-1 solution of Coffee Brown Acid Stain both sprayed and lightly poured on the surface to create the “wash” look of the stain. The darker accents were applied with the sprayer tip close to the surface to produce a “pooling effect.”

Finish with the concrete sealer of your choice. A high gloss sealer was used on this floor. Decorative concrete is both an art and science. Much of the style is up to the individual. Good luck with your own projects and call us with your questions, 877-255-2656.

Filed under: Projects, Q & A by Amie
No Comments »

Applying water-based sealers in the wintertime can be challenging but not impossible. Certainly, all outdoor decorative concrete should be sealed with a solvent-based sealer from December-February. Though solvents are less temperature sensitive overall, they still should not be applied in freezing conditions. Water-based sealers can be used for indoor flooring projects in occupied homes or businesses under the following conditions:

For best results in dry conditions, dampen the applicator with water from a spray bottle before beginning the application. If you have a new construction project that might be difficult to heat, consider sticking to a solvent-based sealer.

Filed under: Product News, Q & A by Amie
No Comments »

Question:

I want to acid stain the floors in my house. What can I do to hide the holes around the perimeter of my rooms after carpet has been removed?

Answer:

Covering carpet tack holes can be difficult. Acid stain will react differently to the patching material than the actual slab itself which in most cases highlights the patch more than the floor. If you can’t live with the holes, consider applying a thin layer of DCI One-Step Overlay in the form of a border around the room. The overlay will cover the tack holes while producing an attractive outline for your floor. Even when using the same color of acid stain, a variation in color will occur. A border does involve extra work but the finished product is outstanding. Good luck!

Filed under: Q & A by Amie
No Comments »

Question: I recently used your residential wax on a project.  What should be used
for cleaning?  Can detergents be used or will they strip off the wax?

Thank you.

P. Habib

Answer: Most household floor cleaners will clean acrylic wax without damaging it if the dilution instructions on the package are followed.

Regards
Frank Turner

Filed under: Q & A by Amie
No Comments »

Question:
I have an outdoor patio made of the red concrete bricks and 1 ft. x 1 ft. red concrete squares. Can I stain these to a darker color? If not, is there some other method of coloring these bricks?

Larry

Answer:
Larry,

Yes you can acid stain patio pavers but depending on the beginning color, the final color may be somewhat different from Acid Stain on regular gray concrete. Keep in mind that brick surfaces maybe more porous than a standard concrete slab so more than the recommended amount of Acid Stain and sealer might be required for the job.

Don’t forget to seal the surface after Acid Staining. I recommend the Sprayable Satin Finish Sealer or the DCI Water-based Sealer if you live in New England or California.

Regards,
Frank Turner

Filed under: Q & A by Amie
No Comments »

Question:
I have read about the sprayers being used for the staining process, but have seen little on other types of applications. I have a design scored into the concrete already and plan to use a brush for this intricate job. Is there any problems using regular painting brushes or foam brushes with Acid Stain?

Thanks,
Terrie

Answer:
Terrie,

Acid Stain can be applied with a paint brush or foam brush if desired, but you should look at our Deco Gel Acid Stain for projects that require close work. Liquid Acid Stain is a bit hard to control for design or other fine work as it tends to bleed under masking tape, etc. Deco Gel is a gelled acid stain that does not run or bleed like liquid acid stains and should be used for borders, stencils or free-hand artwork.

Regards,
Frank Turner

Filed under: Q & A by Amie
No Comments »

Question:
Hi, I just ordered the stain, wax and sealer from you. I was amazed how quickly it got here.

Anyway, my question is: I have some drywall mud, one stain spot and some carpet adhesive on the floor. I wasn’t sure what product(s) I needed to remove these properly. I bought Simple Green and it seems to be removing the drywall mud. Will regular paint stripper or “Oops” work for the other things?

I can’t wait to get started! I think it will look awesome.

Thanks,
Linda

Answer:
Linda:

Drywall mud is potentially your biggest problem because it is a silicone based product. If any of the mud is left on the surface or in the pores, it will leave white spots where the stain could not penetrate the surface. If you can still see drywall mud in the pores, use a fine, stainless steel wire brush to remove the remaining mud. Any glue/mastic can be removed with our Bean-E-Doo Mastic Remover.

Regards,
Frank Turner

Filed under: Q & A by Amie
2 Comments »

Question:
We have several cars that have concrete in the wheel wells and on the rocker panels, and chrome running boards on pick-upon trucks. How do we remove the concrete without damaging the automotive paint finish and the chrome?

- Patrick

Answer:
Patrick:

Speedy-Clean will remove the concrete without damaging the paint.

-Frank Turner

Filed under: Q & A by Shawna
3 Comments »

Question:
Earlier this year, I stained a portion of concrete in my new bedroom addition. I sealed it, but have not waxed it yet. We have a few paint spills, and I am wondering what I can use to remove the paint without harming the stain or if that is even possible.

Thanks,
Kendra

Answer:
Kendra:

If the floor was acid stained, the color is permanent and removing the paint will not affect the color. The sealer may come off with the paint, so you may have to reseal the areas where the paint is removed. We have a product called Soy Gel Professional Paint and Sealer Stripper that works well for removing paint.

-Frank Turner

Filed under: Q & A by Shawna
2 Comments »